[多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

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seymour
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 seymour »

very cool! I do not understand why you want to move the weight to the back for a FWD car. I thought it made sense only for RWD.
You now have less traction in the front. Much more likely to skid when starting from a hill. It is even less likely to drift it on a curve, not that any FWD is a drifter. You have more understeering problem.
Also polycarbonate windshield for street use is so dangerous. If you get in a crash, rescue workers can not break your front windshield to get your out. also glass does not burn if the engine catches fire....

As long as you enjoy it. Good luck and drive safe!

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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

seymour 写了: 6月 5, 2023, 3:01 pm very cool! I do not understand why you want to move the weight to the back for a FWD car. I thought it made sense only for RWD.
You now have less traction in the front. Much more likely to skid when starting from a hill. It is even less likely to drift it on a curve, not that any FWD is a drifter. You have more understeering problem.
Also polycarbonate windshield for street use is so dangerous. If you get in a crash, rescue workers can not break your front windshield to get your out. also glass does not burn if the engine catches fire....

As long as you enjoy it. Good luck and drive safe!

Yep also had thought that lexan might to too strong and pointy glass breaker would be useless lol, but worry not I only changed windshield and quarter windows, side window still tempered glass and rear still laminated one. Not that I don't wanna use all-lexan( to reduce weight! half as glass ), but side window needs molding and full-heating to form the curve... That's why usually side windows are much juicy pricier from lexan aftermarket-parts dealer...

Plus as ( Pike's peak style ) DIY 4130 chromoly 1-3/4" dia, 0.100" thickness fullcaged it's already difficult troublesome getting in/out of the car lol. Have to follow strict postures and procedure, almost cult ceremonial lol. Of course pros would be, general speaking it won't deform and traps me in, even in presume severe situations

About weight distribution, it's most for handling / perfectionism... Who doesn't like perfect balanced( front-back ) corner weight! Also though this car Celica Alltrac is AWD, it is infamous for being very fwd-biased and quite front heavy understeering until goes REALLY fast( in stock setting it won't drift under 80-90mph have to go into corner like rocket leadfoot ).

Plus we all know even for FWD cars, 50/50 balanced could be much beneficial handling / traction aside of course. Celica is 60/40 and since AWD no worries traction nor oversteer ever. Brings a lil closer to 50/50 the better! Though the rad would be a trinkle maybe now at best 55/45 my estimation... ( tubular front, ac delete, abs delete, dash delete, single seat, battery + 200a fuse to boot etc. etc. )
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

我也知道因为最小体积装4"风道,折衷得几何粗糙惨不忍睹。但是是cars又不是jets~ 就是个水箱风扇+尾部大负压带动的进气口而已不会有多大影响,更不在乎像涡轮机一样稳压haha。一方面风道太小是绝对不好的(虽然我一般开窗驾驶),那么不想弄成又长又宽大工程就只能角度和宽高比和尾出形状全都折衷,绝对够用、日用也理想,既不会积水湿气也非常low profile就是了

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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 nowhere »

Riikanbkk 写了: 6月 3, 2023, 4:11 pm 那个那个。。。手机的镜头视野小镜头失真的,所以只有离远才能参照。。。 自爆一下吧(是90斤时候的,装风挡时更低了只有86斤)
*不喜勿看*:

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小哥,别操心车的事情了
都是身外之物

先操心下自己的身体吧
看着太吓人了
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 retry »

Riikanbkk 写了: 6月 1, 2023, 4:58 pm 前文:这个是最早发在留园的自己笔记,包括了之前的老文,若看前文可见:
https://www.6parkbbs.com/index.php?act= ... MjczMTc%3D
---------------------------------

唉,好久没写过了,因为穷鬼之前穷得快没命了,只能全力以赴工作(ObjectARX/LISP,到底还是没逃开码工lol)赚钱。所以这个文编号为什么#5呢,因为之前#3就写得很简单了,#4干了一些活还没写,不过还是先写#5最近做的、照片好整理吧。

另外这次为是么能写呢。。。因为我社交恐惧,说话太直得罪了地头蛇又再次失业。虽然焦头烂额,经济告尽,但也有时间低成本忙车了,劳资要是只有死路一条的话,至少死前修好享享福吧。好在朋友有个墨国小工程缺人,想起我专业认干经验丰富,估计准备让我做项目经理给我还不错的薪水,而且本身小项目很快做完不会离T国家里太久,让cctv和融洽邻居帮看猫即可。希望早日成行救命吧。说不定顺便还能观赏我AOE2强者Aztec文明遗迹haha~

#5做的两大项是水箱后移、安装风挡
在之前也刚做了铣了很多小工具,上了油(因为移水箱装风挡,暂时不装满EFI打火了),精确角度做好机舱盖支架等等等等。以后再写#4吧。。。
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步骤零:首先,设计初步概念。
水箱后移当然是有一些好处的,虽然不是很大的好处,但是机舱空间增加、重心后移更加平衡、水量增大、冷却效果变好甚至过冷。而且3SGTE(就是MR2一样的)早已证明水泵很强,流量很足够,我也有备了电动水泵可备用加强。

这里面,一个极度重要的是,为了简化设计,减少起伏增强可靠性,虽然不是很有必要,但我决定了100-120℃的高温热水走车里。就从我换档手旁经过。这点有些蒸笼和疯狂,但我是瘦骨嶙峋不怕热的,只要做好隔热,把排气链接到后移水箱上,也计划管子上焊几个长翼片,要和车底一样能增强散热不会逊。
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步骤一:水箱后移,前车身部分
第一步当然是开焊最关键的water neck。咬咬牙,下了决心直接开切。
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这两图是我用切口的不锈钢ziptie固定lobster pie cuts,这样固定小件虽然慢一点,但质量比大力钳夹着高多了,更严丝合缝、吻合优化。
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完工,打磨,装上。
说得简单,实际上也经过了helicoil修螺。
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虽然我是焊铝老手,这次也减小电流焊,但是偶尔递钎没递好也是penetration太过。作为完美主义者,管子内部我都是手工打磨纯平抛光。气动修磨机大好用,就是不能quick change,自己做了个小工具可以单扳手换,不用再俩手俩扳手了。
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Water neck从(我自制大改的)火墙导进车内。自己车了ss圆形焊接螺母,可以手拉着点焊,焊成。
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包了个3"铝筒,是作为insulation安装和blower进风。
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成品相,inline blower还是很便宜的,以后试试效果。
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从机舱进驾驶舱是这样的。我为什么加了一个大U形弯呢?当然是防止发动机猛踩油rock影响。其实我的车子会加brace damper,水管也是高强度,理论上一根直管也行,但是完美主义工程师是永远鲁棒可靠的。
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第二步:water neck做好了,当然配对的return inlet / thermostat housing 也要赶紧做。很简单马上完成,主要是考虑好对好下面设计的回水通路。
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也不能说完成还没打扭矩,因为还在考虑要不要加装这儿temp sensor,以及我的奇思异想要不要加一个schrader valve帮助换水后加快bleeding。Schrader valve是空调高压管上,耐热耐压肯定没问题,不过也完全没必要就是了。
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第三步,钻车底,架长管。注意自制的支架,全部是橡胶阻尼螺丝,安装3个保证强度稳定。
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第四步,打铝皮、进车里。也加了高强度gasket不为密封只为增强阻尼和稳定。
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步骤二:任何高强度DIY,都伴随着大量维修。
1)维修头灯塑料(又裂了,厂家为什么不能生产铝镁壳而是塑料壳。。。塑料的东西全都用不了一两年。头灯这东西可是我一人用5个,必不可少的神器啊,还好我备用多每次都不会影响干活),加了订书机铁钉作为补强。
头灯的爱老婆aaa电池有一组可能不合格,老是充电时亮灯,要高压打一下,用温度化开晶体。
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2)涡轮铸铁支架重焊。用奥氏体不锈钢焊条完全没有难度,记好预热、慢冷即可。
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3)诺佳刮刀刀片卡掉了。唉怪不得这么好的设计没人用,强度太差,也不能换刀片。先修好安装架,boride磨了下凑合吧。
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4)lol这个是本人的大部头,用webbing reinforced PVC管自制了8米水冷焊枪线,又便宜又耐用又软软!这么长的8m线必须专门引线,引线非常需要技巧,先用小鱼绳通出来,吸/吹时必须短脉冲,瞬间高压但赶紧抽出,让鱼绳的弹力作用递进。
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然后换成不锈钢小绳,用小鱼绳把不锈钢小绳通出来,一定把管道理直。
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最后用不锈钢小绳把铜线通出来。也是一定把管道理直,稍有阻力就扬一下扬直。接好接头就完工了,而且还加上了水泵快捷hoho,以后换水冷枪都用快接就方便了。
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步骤三:打铁,回水路。
打铁不锈钢支架,装在block上。也做了刚度褶皱,减重,当然也是橡胶减震螺丝。
装在block上是自制不锈钢螺丝,当然自制车削强度不如挤压,只是手头试炼一下。哈哈有钻铣床是真方便,根本就不用买六角杆料,自己用分度头就铣出尺寸完美的hex头。
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发现之前装的AN hose不合适,要缩短换成两个45°接头才好。这里我自制的锁紧防退装置又发挥了巨大作用!有了结实的jig轻轻松松不用费力就拆装好了而且完美。
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这个从油底壳回水的主弯管,角度非常刁钻的。但是因为是90°好拆装没问题,可以做成一根硬管弯管。
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试装上。
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步骤四:聚碳酸酯Lexan风挡,制模
先用cardboard制软模,再转移到vinyl做硬模。感谢上天感谢cleco!没有Cleco帮着夹撑的话,就我这小身板、弱鸡体力,就累死了。
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转移到聚碳板上。是国内订的便宜货,因为我穷,没有镀膜而是普通单面加硬防静电。没区别,以后用Naphta和Plexus和Meguiars #10保养好,每年抛光一次就是了。
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第一次在Cleco帮助下试装。还有一些jinks需要iron out。
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步骤五:brace support,naca ducts jig,及杂项
试装聚碳之后,感觉曲面刚性很理想,但是我们、是完美主义者。。。 而且喜欢高速巡航。。。于是决定,要做central brace。

而且要可拆装的,平常可以拆下不影响年检和最优化视野。
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注意上图那个大铁三角块,那是我为了能最少焊接、打铁批量做出NACA ducts,自己做的一个jig。
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NACA ducts现在还没有发力,但是下一步的重点。先测量了一下,发现!发现!不仅车身侧面可以按预计计划每侧quarter装两个,而且车底完全有空间也装两个!!!

虽然是拉力款买菜车,底盘又高又没做平车底(我不愿做任何影响维修保养简便的),但是做出大开口尾吹后,估计也会些许有点心理作用haha。更重要的是,如果焊在底盘下面引气,那我就直接cosplay Gordon Murray大神的迈凯轮了,fan car好玩lol。有没有作用都不是坏事。
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Polycarb / Lexan central brace test fit, welded up.
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Bleed clutch line. 离合管是我完全自制的ss管,可以传家lol。但是之前因为体力太虚弱,偷油獭原装的强力大回簧(他猫的比气门簧还硬!)+很重的aftermarket单盘离合(穷买不起双盘。有钱买双盘,没钱练腿肌!lol)我根本bleed不动。。。

这次直接拆掉了回簧再吸,也用了自制的手机三脚架adapter帮着观察slave cyl情况。搞定。完美无缺。至少证明手艺完美,只是体力捉急。
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图最上方那个超大的就是偷油獭离合回簧
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步骤六:装上风挡。
对于单人来说,这可是大工程。一定做好万全准备才能开干。

第一步,我确定不用焊螺丝螺母了太费事儿,这种事可以直接拉铆搞定,拉铆是不容易精细控制力度的,所以也自制了一堆4.0mm 5/32",4.8mm 3/16"的gasket作为垫片防止过猛。
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开干。为了确保密封防锈,没有买风挡密封条而是直接用了sensor safe RTV硅胶。其实本来是想用clear RTV好看,但是clear全部都是acedic cure,虽然我喷的漆应该能防没事儿,但是不想留下疑问,全部用黑胶吧。唉~
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黑胶用了10管850g,安装弄了5个小时,很脏很脏的确实ruined appearance。。。 但我不是appearance guy 而是sleeper guy无所谓,而且聚碳和有机玻璃一样清亮清亮、超高透光!

塑刮清理硅胶、掀开保护膜后,就跟透明没有东西一眼,水清水清,爱死我了!我可是最痛恨贴膜,买了二手车要用火炬把贴膜全都拆掉的人lol~ 但是玻璃拆了贴膜擦拭好,透光度也完全没法和塑料比啊!!! 呵呵还有本文开头大家应该就看到我是痛恨塑料结构的人,但仅有聚碳是例外,因为聚碳既强又韧,厚了还能防弹。。。

众多ytber危险拍摄防护罩、各种mil87+军用民用护目镜全都是聚碳。这次我用的1/4" 6.35mm聚碳风挡还是比较薄(重量只有风挡玻璃的一半),法线角只能直接防.22 low speed,但是正面60°倾角,估计也是至少能让.22lr跳蛋的。绝对超级耐用就是了。
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唉,自己暴饮暴食症(bulimia nervosa)搞得体重极度捉急,86斤95磅。。。90-100斤我就对减重极度满意了,但现在吃得多了些都控制不住往下掉啊,搞得太轻、核心肌肉消失、没重心,抱一块轻巧的聚碳风挡都晃得我东倒西歪。。。
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你这DIY贴这里浪费了。
贴YouTube上肯定能走不少流量, 赚不少外快
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

retry 写了: 6月 30, 2023, 12:07 am 你这DIY贴这里浪费了。
贴YouTube上肯定能走不少流量, 赚不少外快
Lol谢您认可价值!不过作为一个pauper loner,真的做视频没那么简单,一方面虽然贫穷在死亡边缘,可是作为一个死传统中国人,虽然已经贫穷到死亡边缘独木桥了,仍是打心里鄙夷铜臭不愿兴趣连上钱。。。 只愿意像老bbs老买提一样写写文讨论

一方面其实很多年前就想在T国搞英文视频,而且题材点子很多和好友大牛CB一样,现在CB前辈已经是ytb大牛了~ 但是搞视频真的也需要财力人力成本啊,别说设备买个狗扑肉俄都买不起,攒了好久才买了个二手狗扑肉(不然就不会只一辆便宜的30年老车Celi当买菜车,被坏人捂嘴砸车后才不得已借钱买了30年便宜Rolla),写脚本也要表达能力,最关键是推广根本就是烧钱给host古狗进贡,不然再好视频也没人能看到。北米超强大牛我最崇拜的,技术和视频都超强,订阅都只几百人而已。。。这年代,不花钱推广的东西也没几人能看到

所以啊,nowadays搞视频,除非能力全球排头了,像我这样一个普通穷鬼不可能的,想都不要想。

您觉得diy视频居然能赚钱?!那是因为您看到的都是那几个有钱烧有人使唤的团队,也就是视频上露脸主角好像就一两人,实际上骗鬼呢。。。就说俄们Celi community吧,俄知道无数大牛也拍超强diy视频的,有俄国牛自己搞full tubular,自己用毛子潜艇厂pt3v,ti64自己手工制造独创涡机双增发动机,我的很多小细节抄他的;米国大牛自己设计改造,自己tune程序换档不松油好多精品分享视频的;有很多英国牛各种出奇独创,有南美牛最近把很多人梦想改2gr四驱搞了详细视频,俄国牛把移植rolla详细视频,马来牛改2jz后驱详细视频等等等等。。。哪个不比我强一千万倍??!都是只有几十几百个订阅,根本没啥播放量。很多现在都消失了再也不发视频了。。。
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Hof »

是的!如何把 hobby & career(at least stable income) 整合在一起,是90%的有志之士的梦想。
这也是许多人,宁愿一辈子待在大学/faculty或者 R&D 的原因,即使他们知道搞business 才是生存之道,也矢志不移 = stubborn :-)

---
这里还有一个延伸的思考问题:
那些初创公司,创始人 如果是R&D/scientist出身,如何与搞business出身(e.g. MBA)的人一起,协调工作,生存下去乃至发展壮大。
或者,初创人本身是如何蜕变,个人完善,涅槃重生的?
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

近来遇到很多糟心事儿受到重创,进度很慢,不过自制屁股排气风道好了,就发个贴吧。下一步做进气风道,新的漩涡壶和扩张壶和预冷水道和仪表,完成水路系统。

6月底从这个糟心样子开始。
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排气风道大概这样。
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车内视角,支撑架,防虫防蜗牛铁丝网。
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炫一下自己的工具们,本穷B和大牛们不同,工具买得很少就那个Cleco小工具,其它全都是二手自修和自己手工打造修改或自制。焊接螺丝也都是自己车铣
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加长工具是万用好手,像俄这种体力不支的弱鸡必须要加长,也要注意定心很好抛光防锈。
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我之前花宝贵200cny买过非常漂亮的longflex扳手,丢了后买不起替换的了,自制个吧,虽然棘轮和灵巧远远不如正牌但是便宜可用。注意自制longflex ratchet时,那个flex ratchet head的旋转不能太松,一定要特别紧特别坚固!因为longflex最耀眼就是各种狭窄角落的处理,但是伸进狭窄角落很长、如果头子乱转可是非常不爽。Longflex体裁的灵巧和大扭矩是非常惊人的好用
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不光可以做扳手,想可以像螺丝刀一样使用,还比螺丝刀顺手好用力多了。
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因为偷油獭的油箱挂在屁股,所以后备箱很浅,一切必须精打细算;水箱没像很多甩尾车一样放平那不直观,倾斜了55°,和玻璃岔开一点点距离,以后做好进气风道盖上就不会烤太严重。
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我不想像赛车一样把屁股完全切掉做成框架减重,为了屁股开口尽量开大一点,也侵占到后备箱卡锁的空间了,做了DIY修改把锁扣改小了。
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波登拉线绕个圈接上,试验卡锁非常良好。
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顶视图。
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左面这个粗糙的3寸排气直接绕过水箱排到热风里。计划这是进水管预冷/舱内蓄电池废气/扩张壶relief的排放接口
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虽然俄是个穷B自修工也没真正的压边工具,但是一切按照高标准来因为这套水路将会高压1.3-1.5。我做的所有接口都是焊厚一圈打磨抛光仿照压边效果。
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还是可用可靠的。
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后悬挂塔目前不太计划大改,新的漩涡壶就挂在铝bar上吧;扩张壶要挂高计划挂在滚笼上,扩张壶回水从前后座之间下去。后座右座当然不计划能带人了。。。 后座左座能伸伸腿拉床睡个觉足够了。反正我既无朋友也无家人。
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Boot rad屁股视图。
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现在只是装了一个14" 140w fan试装下test fit。未来会1个14寸+1个13寸共280w
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Lol可以看到3"那个管子开口。新的部件全都是不锈钢(0.8mm薄板,2mm高刚板,自制焊接螺丝等等等等。。。)防水防湿会省心很多,原来的部件也都非常仔细强化处理了
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小细节方面A,不锈钢板上直接铆了钢丝网,但是冷轧版全部焊接了螺丝、加了点gasket防止钢丝网刮擦漆面。
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仔细处理,尽量万无一失给自己省心
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小细节方面B,自制的铝架安装俄觉得自己做得还是不错的若需要可以参考,lol DIY把铝合金和不锈钢螺丝“焊”在一起不仅固定无比坚固稳定万无一失(实际上只是用4043快速full fusion build up把不锈钢包在里面,4043本身也很强,冷缩后无比坚固肯定超过铝基材够用即可),也考虑好了阻尼减振、热胀冷缩余量等等。各处都是各种自制或买的橡胶件,连接件是松配合但是安装时用外卡钳帮着装非常坚固。
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顶上这个固定算好,准备自制不锈钢tab。
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切高压厚胶管和gasket material做的减振稳定。
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松配合的自制不锈钢小tab左右一对,虽然松配合但是可以看到螺丝位活动空间,外卡钳应力配合好打扭矩锁紧后还是非常实在实用的。
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Lol虽然首图那个后备箱糟心图,但是可是比刚买时好多了也是自制大修过的。原车贴过隔音,这是我最憎恨的东西。隔音材料会积存水汽,只要有个口子就会开始大锈,那时油箱开着开着掉下来了,俄的心脏都要跳出喉咙了吓死了。
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这是那时自修的图,以前也发过。
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那时油箱自修以后,可是终于非常省心了。这次搞风道之前拆下油箱,拆时也看了一切我做的部位都非常完美仍然跟这张图、那时刚做完的新的一样
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俄之前跟买买提知名水军老色狼拌嘴(老色狼那个水军篡改俄的发言和发图,被抓了正着还恬不知耻装傻。他也号称是米华吧,但是篡改我的图截屏文件名是“捕获4.jpg”,ps字体全都是宋体和黑体,俄觉得压根就是国内水军,长期北米生活的米华不管好坏,除非喜爱中文系统和软件达到了较为狂热的程度,否则也不太可能这么露骨吧),那时俄有一次失误甩尾屁股向前式了,也不敢油刹怕高速倒行别再误操作爆了powertrain,结果70mph rear ended把水泥墩都撞歪了。但是丰田的屁股毫发无伤仅仅掉漆,俄看旁边没人马上掉头开走了。老色狼那时骂我这不可能怎么可能丰田70mph rear ended水泥墩上毫发无伤,不过Celica油箱挂在屁股上所以屁股是非常坚固的保险。不过俄对老色狼的反击也有一点不太公平,因为那时俄也修理油箱对屁股修过了。虽然俄的DIY自修从工程上和用料上应该都不如丰田原装,但是手艺上俄还是比较自信的全都是full penetration fusion weld哈哈,可能对屁股强度还是有些许稍稍加强或许
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上次由 Riikanbkk 在 9月 28, 2023, 2:04 am,总共编辑 2 次。
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

漩涡壶DIY coolant swirl-pot lol

Lol俄脸书E文写的发的,不想再写中文了直接发这个吧。Lol weekend fun activity, check flow for swirlpot before welded up, it's annoying I googled but didn't find any simple see-through or fow test video for swirl-pots. I'll post test video link here( since I never practiced voice after TS I sounded like scrap, so I'll just post a link don't click if dislike it... ):


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Simple test showed me geometry/angle is really critical! 4-inch dia. pseudo inline 180deg is terrible almost no effect at all, 90deg is Ok acceptable, and 135deg swirls like crazy! And i made it 4-inch dia. thought that's an upgrade from my previous 3-inch pseudo-inline, but perhaps 4-in is too large for practical water pump pressure; except maybe weld a center pillar to promote swirls perhaps? But too much hassle I designed it 104deg it's acceptable enough. Center pillar could be a fun test for later.

Now I understand the small dia., large height, vertical designs might be very much effective it it fits. Geometry really makes it good or worthless( since viscosity; reserve height; are too variable depending on road and driving conditions, and pressure/volumn flow rate depends on pump not easy to tune ).

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Making of swirl-pot, one DIYer 2 working days not in rush

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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

OCD患者症状发作苦啊。
Lol,OCD发作把这个header tank焊得过火了,overkill overbuilt。。。 只是一个水壶而已,6601-T6 3mm铝板,正反双面满焊100%穿透,硬塞了3片加强(其实是方便观察水位,因为压力容器不愿意加透明管)。。。浪费氩气啊。权当作焊接油箱fuel cell的练手吧
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这是主题帖那个计划热水管进水箱之前,焊几个翼片预冷一下。其实没大必要纯玩。OCD也是弄得过火了,增加了一些重量(但是车身不锈钢bracket各种穿孔开孔褶皱支撑,最小质量最大强度),3寸外包支撑搞得很强劲不怕震动,3寸软管是焊好后再旋进去的,也很累手。
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发现装着驾驶座实在没空间焊第二个floor naca duct。费尽力气拆出来座位(我的小身子骨,把死重的偷油獭原装7th gen座位从笼子里拉出来,累死了),把duct焊了。这个RHD driver side 有 main hoop 落脚挡着,只能做成90°望天。反正接上水箱之后,水箱风扇吸力吸着没大区别
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

本文分两部分,第一部分接着上次笔记继续;第二部分详细不无巨细地写了一个大件rad inducer duct(后置水箱进气风道)的整个思考和焊接过程,可以给大家新接触DIY的作为参考。

测试OCD pre-cooling的视频:


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上则笔记发表时最后实验好了漩涡壶水流,这就接下去装车。只能装在后悬挂brace bar(旧货c-one铝合金)上最合适。俄对于机械耐久度比较OCD强迫症,比如两张平板背对背焊,俄是绝对不会只焊全边毕竟应力还是会unpredictable;俄都会中间钻孔开很多口均匀焊实。在brace bar上也中间开道满焊交叉brackets。
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装车,角度和高度都是测量计算好的,用3个减震带胶studs固定。呵呵螺纹座是铝钢'焊'的。为了车子维护方便,不要搞螺丝-活螺母两个扳手操作,一定要把螺纹座固定死;而铝合金攻丝是绝对不耐用不长久的,所以铝钢焊一定要熟练,省得helicoil了。(后面会详细讲解)
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既然和水箱平齐的swirl pot(漩涡壶,抽气)已经装好了,下面就是一定要在水路最高处的header tank(扩张壶,增压)。只能装在防滚笼上了。(唉有点儿高了不利重心啊。这个也是折衷没办法,因为Celica油箱挂在屁股,所以后备箱太高水箱也不好放平,甚至为了减少扬程engine outlet高温水路没走车底直接车内,漩涡壶和扩张壶也只能跟着架高)

防滚笼全是倾斜角度杆空间也很局促,真的很难测量,步骤:(1)用水平尺,把好角度高度同时估计几个大概参照点;(2)用mask tap辅助量出角度;(3)祭出CAD大法:Cardboard advanced design,lol
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下料;
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焊接并完成。结构耐用度OCD再次发作,弄得内外双穿透满焊,内部做了几个加强片加强并作为反光观察水位(俄是不愿在极为高温高压的扩张壶安装透明观察管的)。因为偷油獭 3s发动机 出了名的热火朝天,所以扩张壶水量弄得大了点儿重1.7kg。。。加上整个后置水路增加很多水量,回水铝管走车底,haha简直要有可能节温位儿过冷了
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下面是OCD再次发作。上面已经说了,因为Celica后备箱较高为了不增加太多扬程忍痛把高温水路安装在了车内;但是安装在车内比起走车底呢,容易把自己烫伤不说了,也让铝管失去了些许“预冷”功效,俄的斤斤计较小心眼儿想不开了,干脆把硬管焊了些翼片,又焊上3寸软管接头作为隔热+blower冷却风道。。。唉,真的是想想也不可能有什么降温效果的,纯粹增加了死重伤心啊。不过至少也作为防烫手和安装支架了。
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测量了下计划的右侧地板风道位要拆了驾驶座才好下手焊。体虚弱鸡如俄费尽九牛二虎之力才把座位从full cage笼子里取出来,差点断气昏迷;既然要干也准备万无一失,出了个点子自制了几个能把4寸角磨机的盘装在die grinder上的不锈钢杆adapters。

任何DIYer肯定都离不开角磨机吧,很多4 5 6 7 寸盘子磨小了,因为角磨机bevel机头很大就没法用了,好浪费。另一方面,die grinder买小切割盘很难买到,俄都非常不理解强力die grinder用小切割盘和角磨机一样快,还超精细精准方便,为什么生产商那么少呢?现在有了自己的自制小trick,有如九牛二虎之力爱不释手,已经离不开了又快又准!另一方面真的是把大把的角磨机废盘用到了20mm直径才扔掉,真的是利用爱惜耗材了,俄也可以宣称自己是绿党了haha!
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如图,把那个自制makeshift naca duct焊地板上了。因为cage main hoop位置,只能把角度朝天了。。。反正车底高速气流+水箱风扇能增加点儿进气量就足矣
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下面,准备把进水管回水管都完成;再次祭出神器:masking tape!和各种自制角度尺。
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因为俄设计的预冷热水,扩张壶也要回到回水,需要弄一些漂亮好看的切割;但是穷人买不起角度块也没时间自制sine bar,极为锐角开孔圆管是很难的。只能仔细测量,小心翼翼手工切割打磨了两个V块,俄也知道精度别提了不要想,但是一般夹持圆管足矣好用可靠就行!
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水管完成图:
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第二部分:rad inducer duct
俄体力如弱鸡,抱着大件test fit都站不稳;但是要想效果理想,请一定精细测量,全面考虑,仔细思考,拼命努力各种test fitment!以下分享一下这个详细过程为例,也可供有需要的同好参考。

首先:做好整体计划,首先在车内insitu弄个骨架外形?测量准确一定要保证虽大件但也能方便拆装,取出焊实,再放进去测试没有warpage,然后做出正面进气软管接口,首先数量和直径一定要够用;
另外也要考虑几何,进气软管毕竟是比较小的,平面角度要好,空间要足够,让进气能diffuse均匀散热整个水箱的大部分面积。水箱放置是倾斜了55°=水平35°,计划duct边角到水箱净空6cm,但是正面角度过渡为倾斜30°(水平60°),角度的减小改善风道到水箱的过渡并增加空间。只要这一步完成了基本就大局定了;接下来仔细完善。
俄是想用0.6mm冷轧板的,但是旁边金属店关门后其它家只有不锈钢板,不锈钢薄板奥氏粗粒度,warpage完全无法控制避之不及。但是俄家里还有几块合适的铝合金6061,3mm板,虽然肯定会重一点儿,但也省得再买料了将就用吧。俄的计划是,骨架焊结实,开几个大洞直接拉铆上铝片foil作为减重手段。但是铝片噪音会很大的,所以也是为了增加密封度,RTV硅胶上去做些许缓冲减振。

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第一步:水箱和排气风道是水平角35°放置的,那么第一步做了个上部的折板7cm-145°-7cm。运气很好还比较准不需要太调整。
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k11
k12

第二步:上部有了,测量下部。水箱座底座比较犬牙交错,仔细测量计划兼顾稳定/密封/电线和水管出口等等。最大的难点是水箱靠左(往后看左,车身右侧)一些避开油泵,和左悬挂塔犬牙交错,能否方便拆装就看这儿能留出多少clearance。
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k21
k22
k23

第三步:仔细思考图样,作为下部铝板模板。一次切好直接弄得差不多,然后仔细test fit调整。作为inducer duct安装方式,也在水箱铝座上也焊接了3个螺丝座。

这里解释一下铝钢焊。其实也不是真的把它们“焊”起来,主要是用4043铝焊条build up,一点儿一点儿把钢螺母厚实地包起来。因为4043强度不错焊接位和铝基材一样强,所以强度是不用担心的,但是钢质螺纹可比铝螺纹耐用1000万倍而且更容易维护。当然铝材也可以焊接一个block攻丝装helicoil上loctite263,一样耐用,但是太麻烦,还是直接焊包钢螺母便宜省事儿。

还有一点很不错的,因为锌是铝的合金材质,不像锌是钢的完全有害材质,所以普通的便宜镀锌螺母焊包时,可以把边缘熔融真正的焊起来一点点儿(熔融钢加铝焊条熔合铝钢。反过来钢焊条是不可能熔入铝的),完美用铝密封起来防锈。不锈钢的铬就不要熔融了光焊包就好,反正不锈钢也不比铝更需要防锈
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k31
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第四步:上部下部铝板都固定好了,就可以祭出Cardboard CAD弄出两侧铝板了!仔细反复调整好,insitu点上点好
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k41
k42
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第五步:满焊好骨架后,再次反复test fit调整。令俄很满意的是,因为test fit很仔细,clearance留得很足(正反满焊后把外侧表面焊缝seams全打磨平打磨光滑了),此大件骨架拆装很顺手,配合良好
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k51
k52

第六步:反复仔细测量观察,基本敲定了正面inducer ports panel铝板的样式。一边下料,一边反复test fit和思考,调整好
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k61
k62
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第七步:将inducer ports panel焊上了。因为6个4" ports和brace bar还是有点影响的,拆装还是要取下brace bar。
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k71
k72

这里有一个重大失着!top side没有全tack点好就焊,warpage变形严重,也丑死了唉~ 没办法只能计划钣金锤+打磨重焊;
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k73

不过其它位置还都不错,作为接近完成了,也在测量标好风扇电线出口。
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k75
k77
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第八步:第一次重焊,还是不太理想,但已经可用;
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k81
k82
k83

第九步:再次重焊修形,同时铆上铝片foil,基本完成,当然还是进行了很多精细test fit和调整。重量达到了6.10kg,可悲啊,以后再也不用3mm厚的铝板做这种大件了,说什么也要买到0.6mm冷轧估计4kg
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k91
k92
k93
k94
k95

完成:风道全都可用,整体安装拆卸方便,固定是6个m6+4个水箱共用m5马蹄夹u-bolts(自制)。
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k101
k102
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自制不锈钢m5的马蹄夹tubular flush mounts。虽然有漂亮的铝夹,但铝夹的螺纹真不耐用
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k111-116
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

转载个搜索时看到的也是论坛讨论的超长贴,说得非常全面,lol俄一开始还想再OCD一下在quarter 4个naca ducts弄corner baffle,不过没有高速和ramming,真的应该没有好处?等有闲时inventor设想几个拟真图A家cfd模拟下

quote.superford317 @ https://www.landracing.com/forum/index. ... c=9912.165

A lot of research and tax payer money went into NACA submerged inlet development, in the beginning there were 5 separate scientific investigations undertaken over a period of about 10 years, by some of the best scientist and engineers in the country. The name of the NACA submerged air inlet comes from the organization that first developed it, National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics, the predecessor to NASA. One of the NACA scientific investigations was completed and came up with the NACA duct with the divergent parallel walls, wanting a higher pressure recovery they launched another scientific investigation and came up with the curved divergent ramp NACA duct, that we know today, that has higher pressure recoveries. The first investigations were done small scale, in later investigations performed on full scale models; pressure recoveries were even higher, because of the difference in the boundary layer thickness, from small scale to full scale. NACA ducts are efficient and have little or no drag. For the best results the NACA duct should be located where the boundary layer is the thinnest. That will normally be near the front of a surface it is placed in, as the boundary layer will become thicker, the further it travels over a surface. The engineers that designed the NACA duct, wanted the lowest drag with the highest pressure recovery they could possibly get.

Velocity ratio is the amount of air that can flow through a given size at free stream speeds as opposed to actual real world, operational airflow through a similar size. The NACA duct forms a vortex on each wall that will force more outside air to flow into the inlet than normally would, generating a small ram effect. The two vortices improve the pressure recovery and improve air flow through the duct. The vortices are formed and work best when the air flow through the duct is at a continuous high speed, at lower inlet air speeds the vortices will break down and the duct will lose part of its pressure recovery. If a NACA submerged inlet were used to supply air to the engine intake manifold, it would be more suited to a situation like LSR than most other forms of racing, because the throttle is normally wide open or close to it the entire run, keeping the air flowing through the diffuser, preventing the vortice structures from breaking down. In racing where the driver is continuously on and off the throttle starting and stopping the airflow, the vortices would never get a chance to form and start there ram effect. A NACA submerged duct with curved convergence walls will have a 20% to 30% higher pressure recovery than a NACA duct with straight parallel convergent walls and have velocity ratios 20% to 50% higher also, due to the twin vortices functioning more efficiently with the curved convergence walls than with the straight parallel convergent walls. If you look at the curved convergence wall NACA duct closely, you will notice that the walls follow the contour of a vortice, that is why they are more efficient, they promote the vortice structure and increase the efficiency of it. The air flowing over the top and down the walls of the NACA duct is what forms the vortices, so all the corners should be left sharp to promote the creation and structure of the vortices. The early engineers didn’t realize that the vortices were being formed inside the duct, they found out by accident, after the straight walls were reshaped to follow the airflow streamlines along the sides of the duct, thus giving us the curved convergence walls we all know today.

The NACA duct has an advantage over other types of inlets for certain inlet and airflow requirements. The placement of the NACA duct is more critical than for other types of inlets because of boundary layer thickness and local air velocity. As the speed of the vehicle increases boundary layer thickness will increase also, decreasing the effectiveness of the NACA inlet. A lot of thought should go into where to place the NACA inlet beforehand. A well designed NACA inlet placed at an ideal location had a pressure recovery of .97 at a speed of 245MPH and a pressure recovery of .95 at a speed of 400MPH. The small differences between the pressure recoveries were due to the boundary layer thickness increasing with the speed, reducing the efficiency of the twin counter rotating vortices. A NACA duct has good pressure recovery when used in a region of low air velocity and a thin boundary layer. NACA ducts are best for systems that need only a small amount of air flow diffusion. Pressure recovery will be better if placed in a thick boundary layer but the velocity ratio will decrease. NACA ducts have reduced internal ducting and fewer bends, with less weight and also have a large reduction in drag compared to conventional external scoops. The divergence of the walls of the duct gradually lets the air expand and reduce the chance of separation. NACA ducts do not have as good a pressure recovery or velocity ratio as normal external style scoops, which can have a velocity ratio of over 100 percent, creating a positive pressure in the scoop and diffuser system, having a ram effect, and thereby increasing power at high speeds. The NACA duct external drag can actually be a negative number in certain situations, because of the removal of the boundary layer behind the inlet.

The NACA duct should have a width to depth ratio of between 3 and 5. That is the ratio of duct entrance width to entrance height. The NACA duct should have a ramp angle of between 5deg and 7deg. If the duct entrance ramp angles become too steep, the airflow can separate from the surface of the ramp and reduce airflow through the duct dramatically. The ramp angle can be up to 10deg without a significant pressure loss, less wall divergence should be used for smaller ramp angles. Ramp angles of 15deg or more will result in a large loss to the pressure recovery characteristics, a steeper ramp will make a shorter duct but as ramp angle increases efficiency decreases. All corners and edges should be left sharp to aid in the generation and structure of the vortices. The curved divergent ramp walls improve the pressure recovery, because the twin counter rotating vortices function more efficiently than a straight parallel wall NACA duct. The counter rotating vortices generated on each side of the ramp, force the extra airflow down the center of the ramp between the 2 vortices and into the entrance. About 50% of the body of the twin vortices will extend out of the NACA duct, above the surface of the vehicle, through the boundary layer and pull high energy air from above the boundary layer and into the duct. The pressure recovery at the end of the ramp and at the duct entrance can be over 90 percent after diffusion, in ideal situations. Pressure recovery can be improved with higher ramp angles up to 10deg and the divergent walls result in reduced pressure loss. The pressure loss at the ramp inlet will be dependent on the pressure along the ramp and the thickness of the boundary layer the submerged inlet is placed in. If turbulent airflow is allowed to flow into the submerged ramp, it will increase drag and cause pressure recovery to be reduced due to interfering with the formation of the vortices and causing the airflow to become detached from the ramp.

The best pressure recoveries will be with curved divergence walls. Wall divergence is the ratio of the width of the ramp entrance to the width of the submerged entrance. The divergent walls reduce the pressure loss by the air entering the duct and reduce boundary layer air flow into the duct. Thicker boundary layers reduce the pressure recovery at the submerged entrance, because it will reduce the efficiency of the twin counter rotating vortices, if the boundary layer is sufficiently thick enough so that the vortices will not be able reach above the top of the boundary layer, it would reduce pressure recovery and efficiency by as much as 30%. Pressure recovery will be increased if deflectors are used, regardless of boundary layer thickness. The use of the deflectors will increase the drag somewhat, and the height of the deflectors should be in accordance to the height of the boundary layer they are placed in. With the use of deflectors placed on top of the walls and the use of curved divergence, pressure recovery will be increased. The difference in pressure recovery with duct angle of attack is small. When the duct is located in a curved surface, deflectors will be necessary.

The lip is the shaped protrusion above entrance at the end of the submerged ramp. The shape of the lip must give a high speed at low inlet velocities. The lip should have an airfoil shape. When increasing duct divergence it will increase the angle of attack of the lip and by increasing ramp angle decreases the angle of attack of the lip. Adding curvature to the inner surface of the lip improves flow characteristics, adding curvature to the outer surface only will increase flow loss, by adding curvature to the inside and the outside of the lip surface will benefit flow the most. The lip should have a radius to prevent flow separation. Increasing camber and nose radius will have the best effect on flow. By submerging the lip below the surface in which the entrance is placed in, will be more efficient, but if the lip protrudes slightly above the surface the effect is not harmful. Pressure distribution over the lip will be changed drastically if the ramp angle is changed.

The entrance is the opening at the end of the ramp and is below the body surface, it is the area between the ramp floor and the lip. A square entrance has greater pressure loss than a rectangle entrance; hence the pressure recovery of a square entrance is less than that of a rectangle opening. Because the rectangle entrance is more efficient, that is why we use the width to depth ratio of between 3 and 5. The rectangle air entrance is more efficient because being flat and wide lets the twin vortices function more freely and gives more room between them, in the ramp, to ram the airflow between them and into the entrance at the base of the ramp. The rectangle entrance being more shallow and wider, will allow the body of the vortices to extend above the surface of the vehicle further and hopefully through the boundary layer. The square entrance will not let the bodies of the vortices stick out above the vehicle surface as far and thus loose part of their ram affect due to the ramp being a deeper depth. If the NACA duct is placed in a situation where the airflow is ramming into the entrance due to circumstances outside, efficiency can be increased with Corner baffles, small triangles added to the top corners above the entrance, where the top of the wall meets the entrance.

The NACA submerged inlet and the rear diffuser under the rear of a lot of race cars, function in almost the same way and have a lot in common. The twin counter rotating vortices inside the diffuser ramp and having the peak negative pressure at the entrance to the ramp from the vehicle surface, the peak pressures will follow the entrance to the ramp as the ramp angles are changed and it moves the ramp entrance locations.

The NACA duct has had a bad rap for a long time by people that were improperly designing it or improperly using it. Designed properly and employed in the correct area and situations, the NACA submerged duct can have pressure recovers and velocity ratios approaching those of a conventional style external scoop with a lot less drag. The reason we do not see NACA submerged inlets in a lot of racing classes is because of their poor performance in on-off accelerator situations, so that would cover pretty much all race classes that involve cornering and braking.

Methods can be employed to further increase the airflow through the NACA duct and through the pipe and ductwork leading from the inlet. That is for another set of post at a later date, as time constraints permit.
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

左侧两个naca进气焊好了,向前下倾5°,尽可能减少积水。
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xx11-xx15

对于折衷/compromises clearance & 4" big port 搞的20°ramp怎么看着也都不对,不过反正车子也不是灰机,能进气就行了。但是通过实际自制/安装经验,更改了一下设计,麻烦一些减少到ramp 13°,虽然还是不理想但应该远远超过现阶段过度折衷版
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xx16

章鱼触手第一次试装。还缺左侧2个与车顶3"小管2个。
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xx21-23

顺便修好了升降车窗的塑料支架惨不忍睹再次碎裂事件。这次决定直接焊成不锈钢的,看你还给我破,大不了多装点gasket material减震就是了。。。
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xx31-33
xx34-36
xx41-42

成品非常光滑稳定。没有料到的是不锈钢索也非常卷没法修形回去,只能把sleeve cut 3cm拉紧一点,很幸运偷油獭钢索剪短3cm不影响安装就是紧一点(耗损也会多一点)。总之现在先折腾好大事,以后有时间自己重新测量自制新的Bowden cable...
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xx51-53
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Re: [多图杀猫]不服输的TS焊工继续自修车笔记#5

帖子 Riikanbkk楼主 »

人穷志短,找不到工作生活逐渐走入绝境,为了办个区区T国旅游签visa run 也得弄死弄活浪费了两个月时间和最后的一点点现钱。反正faffing也快完了,自我了断之前车子折腾完,可做遗产送给帮助过我的两位西友和潮州友,不留遗憾

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体力虚弱的干活就是再小心也容易挂彩,每天身上流黄水绿水红血黑血,跟机油反光彩虹似的lol
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