honda crv 2004 引擎加速无力

[Riikanbkk]

。。。静音空压机才200刀。。。加个小气炮1/2 impact driver. 管你神马pulley，wheel，bearing。。。 都可以悬空立拆

（只有impact不考虑电池的。小的不够力。大的够力的太重太死贵）

[Elvingg]

不麻烦， timing chain可以in situ更换，非常简单，最多不超过3个小时

最大挑战是拆crank pulley bolt，没有一个工具可以拧动，我送到车铺它们都拆不了

不过后来发现用break bar顶住control arm ，用starter一打，立马就下来了

老弃恢复健康啦？恭喜啊

[cockroachusmle]

每次红灯停下来后加速无力，引擎有明显的knocking和hesitation。一直开着加速就没有问题。换了spark plug, 检查了vacuum leak, 都没有发现问题。不知道有大侠能不能看一下为什么？多谢了！

Did you check coils as well?

[cockroachusmle]

我再和你对一下，我先是车在park 5-10秒，然后松开闸门，开始踩油门1:50，问题不会马上出现，我没有使劲踩油门，随着我油门踩的加深（就像我们大多数人平时加速的油门节奏），到1：56出现引擎突然失去速度。

我看看能不能检查TP sensor。

Feels like timing issue but NOT timing belt. Could be camshaft position sensor???

[Altair]

今天用电表查过4个coil，全部正常，有一个电阻稍微有些不同，但是按照表格仍然正常。另外做了一个pcm reset。没有变化。又收集了一个live data, engine speed, map, alternator volt, knock sensor, misfire. 突然意识到刚才的图片没有包括stalling，终于看到engine misfire!

MAP sensor突然跌落，engine突然不进气了？

[Altair]

对比以下之前的图片，好像misfire 突然出现，

[Altair]

查过youtube，类似问题仍然需要先从timing chain查起。即使有其他零件的ECL。恶心的就是这种情况下仍然没有ECL。

Feels like timing issue but NOT timing belt. Could be camshaft position sensor???

[wolf_north_1234]

有missfire 就好办，缩小很多范围。

请解释数值2,

是哪个缸？

[Riikanbkk]

今天用电表查过4个coil，全部正常，有一个电阻稍微有些不同，但是按照表格仍然正常。另外做了一个pcm reset。没有变化。又收集了一个live data, engine speed, map, alternator volt, knock sensor, misfire. 突然意识到刚才的图片没有包括stalling，终于看到engine misfire!

MAP sensor突然跌落，engine突然不进气了？

这些看不出来啥。把TPS，TPS，TPS！和Lambda1 AFR log一下。没有TPS看不清楚操作意图。能log一下trigger（CPS或cam distro数据）更好。
MGP比RPM掉得早那么多很不正常。
能导致这个问题的，就是没有正常燃烧（原因太多要具体更细查，就比如comp test永远是第一要务，正时灯也是保险必须查）回复真空了或电动节气门故障

[Altair]

怎么可以看到是哪个cylinder？

有missfire 就好办，缩小很多范围。

请解释数值2,

是哪个缸？

[Altair]

以前看过tps数据，是这个帖子的第二个图，就是踩油门。

这些看不出来啥。把TPS，TPS，TPS！和Lambda1 AFR log一下。没有TPS看不清楚操作意图。能log一下trigger（CPS或cam distro数据）更好。
MGP比RPM掉得早那么多很不正常。
能导致这个问题的，就是没有正常燃烧（原因太多要具体更细查，就比如comp test永远是第一要务，正时灯也是保险必须查）回复真空了或电动节气门故障

[Riikanbkk]

以前看过tps数据，是这个帖子的第二个图，就是踩油门。

TPS是所有log都必须要有，TPS和RPM是两大基准参考。你那张图没有这种MGP提前一二秒就大掉的异常。看看TPS和RPM是否仍在同步，才能判断ECU逻辑。

Lambda1/AFR也是一般永远都要log的数据。如果TPS没松就突然lean得狠rich得狠可以对应分析

下图是我diag时候的log，实际上永远是ECU states整体全部都按60hz log，但一般至少要列出来看这些项目们（其它用途比如高速加油温和aux triggers，tuning加wideband KNK加ign trigger），才好分析推测。不然信息太少。最后就是，你不要再老看电子了，既然有misfire，起码把最基本最基本的comp test和正时灯测量了好吧？！不然连机械校准的具体情况offset都不知道，看这些log永远是盲人摸虾

[seymour]

以前看过tps数据，是这个帖子的第二个图，就是踩油门。

Look at my previous posts. You have to explain why the TPS is registering throttle close when you press the gas pedal first.
I took a quick look on hondapartsnow. (you can put in your VIN on the website and confirm.) I think the 2004 cr-v uses a throttle wire.
(under pedal item 3 part no. 17910-S9A-A04).
you should be able to see a hole on the throttle where the wire hooks on in the engine bay.
It could be a simple dead spot on TPS problem. If you want to troubleshoot, you can turn the throttle flap and measure the output of the TPS.
For a part at this price range, it may not worth your trouble. It is easy and cheap to replace.
If the TPS is not defective, it could be unstable power to TPS or ECU trouble.
TPS works like an analog volume nob. They do fail.

[Altair]

多谢多谢！有这些信息就不像以前盲人摸象。请问"comp test和正时灯测量"的英文是什么？

TPS是所有log都必须要有，TPS和RPM是两大基准参考。你那张图没有这种MGP提前一二秒就大掉的异常。看看TPS和RPM是否仍在同步，才能判断ECU逻辑。

Lambda1/AFR也是一般永远都要log的数据。如果TPS没松就突然lean得狠rich得狠可以对应分析

下图是我diag时候的log，实际上永远是ECU states整体全部都按60hz log，但一般至少要列出来看这些项目们（其它用途比如高速加油温和aux triggers，tuning加wideband KNK加ign trigger），才好分析推测。不然信息太少。最后就是，你不要再老看电子了，既然有misfire，起码把最基本最基本的comp test和正时灯测量了好吧？！不然连机械校准的具体情况offset都不知道，看这些log永远是盲人摸虾

[Altair]

By the way, the car has no rough idle problem. When it's parked, it's very quiet and stable.

[seymour]

By the way, the car has no rough idle problem. When it's parked, it's very quiet and stable.

Your engine probably has no problem at all. You have a physical cable that directly links the gas pedal to the throttle body. There is no pedal position sensor, just a throttle position sensor (TPS). The ECU can only get the gas pedal position indirectly using the TPS. If you press the gas, the TPS tells the ECU that the throttle is closing. The ECU will cut fuel since it believes you are not accelerating. You may have misfire since the engine is running super lean because the throttle is actually wide open.

See instructions on replacing this here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx ... d-2830131/
Of course check where the cable goes into the throttle body to make sure nothing is loose. Those things rarely break. I have seen throttle cable rust and stuck at open throttle, I have never seen it closes the throttle when you press gas due to loose connections.

Nothing can be 100% sure. I would say you have 90% chance of a simple TPS sensor problem. If that does not fix the problem, check the ground wire and the 5V wire to the TPS to make sure you have a solid ground and a solid 5V. A rusty grounding wire can confuse multiple sensors.  

[Riikanbkk]

多谢多谢！有这些信息就不像以前盲人摸象。请问"comp test和正时灯测量"的英文是什么？

compression test (monitoring cylinders health and consistency, gasoline type comp tester.
Simple. Fast. Cheap. Pretty much always the first section in all cars shop manuals. Just be careful operation safety)

timing light (check whether base ignition timing on target, older distro engine use inducer type xenon lamp - while newer COP engine use sensitive trigger/logical type instead - or use utility long spark plug for accuracy
Simple. Dead fast. Very cheap. Just make sure car is warmed up and in close map and base timing testing mode)

[Altair]

Thanks, that's a beautiful link you included. The TPS sensor on gen2 honda is in an awkward position. But I now I have some pointers to go about to do some further checking.

Your engine probably has no problem at all. You have a physical cable that directly links the gas pedal to the throttle body. There is no pedal position sensor, just a throttle position sensor (TPS). The ECU can only get the gas pedal position indirectly using the TPS. If you press the gas, the TPS tells the ECU that the throttle is closing. The ECU will cut fuel since it believes you are not accelerating. You may have misfire since the engine is running super lean because the throttle is actually wide open.

See instructions on replacing this here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx ... d-2830131/
Of course check where the cable goes into the throttle body to make sure nothing is loose. Those things rarely break. I have seen throttle cable rust and stuck at open throttle, I have never seen it closes the throttle when you press gas due to loose connections.

Nothing can be 100% sure. I would say you have 90% chance of a simple TPS sensor problem. If that does not fix the problem, check the ground wire and the 5V wire to the TPS to make sure you have a solid ground and a solid 5V. A rusty grounding wire can confuse multiple sensors.  

[Altair]

I am reading this again, my misfire is triggered by something else when accelerating. There is no misfire during idle or normal drive. It only happens when accelerating after stopping for a few seconds with a warm engine. Does that still warrant compression test and timing light test? I watched Scott's timing light test video.

TPS是所有log都必须要有，TPS和RPM是两大基准参考。你那张图没有这种MGP提前一二秒就大掉的异常。看看TPS和RPM是否仍在同步，才能判断ECU逻辑。

Lambda1/AFR也是一般永远都要log的数据。如果TPS没松就突然lean得狠rich得狠可以对应分析

下图是我diag时候的log，实际上永远是ECU states整体全部都按60hz log，但一般至少要列出来看这些项目们（其它用途比如高速加油温和aux triggers，tuning加wideband KNK加ign trigger），才好分析推测。不然信息太少。最后就是，你不要再老看电子了，既然有misfire，起码把最基本最基本的comp test和正时灯测量了好吧？！不然连机械校准的具体情况offset都不知道，看这些log永远是盲人摸虾

[Riikanbkk]

I am reading this again, my misfire is triggered by something else when accelerating. There is no misfire during idle or normal drive. It only happens when accelerating after stopping for a few seconds with a warm engine. Does that still warrant compression test and timing light test? I watched Scott's timing light test video.

Always ALWAYS comp test first.

That's for certain, for anything engine related, ESP. serious / non-accidental misfire in any situation! Always comp test. Help diag narrow down to the causes ( and when you're asking on the net, attach COMP numbers always help commenters provide better suggestion/direction )

Base timing and timing marks not neccessary, but always a plus / sanity check

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AND: don't watch Scotty, DON'T watch Scotty vids. His vids are for ENTERTAINMENT ONLY / for kids. Not for any serious DIY attempt.

Watch HPA Academy, Chrisfix, or any type expert tubers. ( In you case Honda CRV/K engine expert tubers )

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AND AND: TPS calibration is REALLY EASY job( as you don't have ITBS #$%^& synchronising headache, like me and many... ), WHY not just refer to you shop manual, and calibrate TPS perfect, whether it's or not TPS-related, always help elimination and sanity check. Bon chance